Toile / Development

A mannequin/dress form is shown with a draped creative sample on the stand. The draping is in a yellow fabric and crosses the chest in a Vivienne Westwood inspired style, with a corset underneath the bust and draping extending through to the sleeve. The skirt drape has also been briefly started. The toile/drape is developed on the stand to check the design before being traced off into a paper pattern and digitised into the computer, creating the first creative sample for the machinist to sew and then show to the buyers.

Toile development for a draped bodice dress, draped on the stand to achieve the desired shape and look.

Photo: Studio Iole
A mannequin/dress form is shown with a half toile of a dress developed on the stand. The toile features manipulated pleating running from the neckline drop asymmetrically towards the hem, with a portrait-inspired collar. The draping is developed on the stand to explore and check the design before being traced off into a paper pattern and digitised into the computer, creating the first creative sample for the machinist to sew and then show to the buyers.

Iole created this half toile of a dress with a manipulated pleating detail from the neckline drop, running asymmetrically to the hem, with a portrait-inspired collar.

Photo: Studio Iole
A mannequin/dress form is shown with lots of manipulated calico on the stand to form a sculptural, couture-style development. The calico has been pleated and manipulated on the stand to test out collection ideas and explore different shapes and silhouettes.

Toile development and Draping.

Photo: Studio Iole
Toile development and Draping showing some pleats.

Toile development and Draping.

Photo: Studio Iole
A flat lay image of a paper pattern piece against a green cutting board. The pattern piece is one of several pieces developed to create a sculptural sleeve, with darts at the sleeve head helping to create the structure and shape of the sleeve, with volume towards the hem. A set square and pattern master are also shown in the image, demonstrating that the pattern was developed manually.

Pattern development showing just one pattern piece that, together with other sleeve pattern pieces, goes towards creating a sculptural sleeve. With darts at the sleeve head to help create the structure and sculpture of the sleeve, with volume towards the hem.

Photo: Studio Iole
First sample and creative development of a cornflower blue satin dress developed by Iole. Featuring an open centre back and an asymmetric draped cowl that begins at the left shoulder and flows diagonally into the right waist, creating soft draping through the lower back.

A first sample / creative development of a dress developed by Iole, featuring an open centre back and draping into the lower back.

Photo: Studio Iole
First sample and creative development of a cornflower blue satin dress developed by Iole. Featuring a high neckline, pleated shoulder detail, an asymmetric flutter sleeve on the left side and sleeveless right side. Considered pleating at the waist conceals a seam while helping to reduce fabric waste in production. The maxi-length silhouette is finished with a split beginning at mid-thigh on the left side.

A first sample / creative development of a dress developed by Iole.

Photo: Studio Iole
A calico toile of a cape is shown on a mannequin, with style lines and adjustments marked out to show the development and working notes for the next stage. The cape features pocket flaps concealed within the seams, with a concealed centre front button stand that continues into an asymmetric funnel neck collar, fastening at the left side.

Toile of a cape by Studio Iole.

Photo: Studio Iole
A flat lay of a pattern cutting table with a sheet of white paper showing the drafting process for a tailored womenswear jacket, developed through manual pattern cutting.

Tailoring pattern development for a structured tailored jacket, developed through manual pattern cutting.

Photo: Studio Iole
A toile development of a draped bodice dress with an internal corset, shown on a mannequin. Inspired by Vivienne Westwood corsetry, the bodice features pointed shaping at the bust apexes, with draped and pleated fabric layered over the structured foundation.

Toile development for a draped bodice dress with an internal corset.

Photo: Studio Iole
A toile development of a strapless draped bodice dress with an internal corset, shown on a mannequin. The draping extends across the arms and into the back, creating a fluid contrast against the structured foundation. Inspired by Vivienne Westwood corsetry, the bodice features pointed shaping at the bust apexes, with draped and pleated fabric layered over the corseted structure.

Toile development for a draped bodice. Draped on the stand to achieve the desired shape and look.

Photo: Studio Iole
A flat lay image of a pattern piece darfted on white pattern paper. The pattern piece is one of several pieces developed to create a sculptural sleeve, with darts at the sleeve head helping to create the structure and shape of the sleeve, with volume towards the hem. A set square and pattern master are also shown in the image, demonstrating that the pattern was developed manually.

Pattern development showing just one pattern piece that, together with other sleeve pattern pieces, goes towards creating a sculptural sleeve. With darts at the sleeve head to help create the structure and sculpture of the sleeve, with volume towards the hem.

Photo: Studio Iole
A close-up of a mannequin’s torso featuring a draped gold pleated bodice. The pleats begin at the armhole and gather upwards into a strap, forming a soft cowl neckline. The toile was created to test the draping and pleating ideas before developing the first creative sample.

Toil Development.

Photo: Studio Iole
A model wears a draped orange jersey dress featuring a high neckline and Grecian-inspired draping that interlocks at the waist and falls softly through the body. A cut-out detail sits at the right side of the waist. The look was developed through draping on the stand before being digitised into a pattern for the first creative sample.

A first sample / creative development of a dress developed by Iole.

Photo: Studio Iole